For many second and third generation British Asians, born and brought up in the UK , their links with a ‘country of origin' is becoming more and more complex. The meaning the place carries changes from generation to generation. For example, while parents have their own memories of childhoods playing in rural villages in Sylhet, their British born and bred children will only remember the stories told to them about this, their own upbringing being so radically different. Nonetheless, visits to these places means that a connection remains between the old country and new. Many people still have family members who still live there and during school summer holiday's marriages are celebrated, deaths commiserated and births commemorated. However, these countries have so much more to offer than simply being the place from which our parents or grandparents were born in once upon a time. This is a guide for British Bangladeshis when visiting Bangladesh .
Dhaka
A country, a people or culture should not be judged on the basis of its cities. Dhaka City is no exception. First impressions of it are quite rightly mostly negative. Being one of the largest and most populated cities in the world, it is inevitably anarchic, understandably so when there are close to [15 million] people living on a relatively small plot of land. Bengalis describe the chaos as ‘ manush ar manush' , literally meaning people and people. But the city is relatively easy to travel around in. In terms of transport, buses, rickshaws and CNGs are frequent and those converting from pounds into taka, also very cheap. A mental map that serves well is: North Dhaka (e.g. Gulshan and Banani) – expensive restaurants, expensive shopping, partying. South Dhaka (e.g. Shahbag and University area) - culture, entertainment, theatre, music. East Dhaka (e.g. Mogbazar) – cheap shopping, cheap restaurants. West Dhaka (e.g. Dhanmondi) – mid range restaurants, mid range shopping, theatre, music.
Like most cities around the world, Dhaka changes throughout the year depending upon its festival cycles, the time of year and the seasons. Due to the warm temperatures at the start of the year, there are many festivals and melas during this period. Ekushey February, celebrated on the 21 st of February sees the entire country celebrate the Language Movement. On that day in 1952 several students from Dhaka University were killed demonstrating against attempts by the then Government to deny Bangla as the state language, imposing Urdu upon the people instead. Colourful processions are led to Shaheed Minars up and down the country, the largest being in Dhaka . There are stalls selling food and handicrafts also music, dancing and drama. It is a very important day in the Bangladeshi psyche and has spawned much literature, art, music and poetry in recognition of it.
Much of the activities on that day in Dhaka take place around the Dhaka University area in Shahbag. While this area is associated with much political upheaval, it is a place which carries resonance and meaning with the founding of the country and hence has much historical interest for visitors. The university dates from 1921 and its buildings are spread over a large part of south Dhaka . One of its buildings includes Curzon Hall, a huge red bricked building which houses the science faculty, an extraordinary example of European-Mogul architecture.
In April Pehla Boishak again sees people come out and celebrate Bangla New Year. Women wear orange and red sarees while men wear colourful fotwas. Special food is eaten on the day including hilsha , the national fish and watered rice. Again there is music and dancing to accompany this period.
Check list for things to see and do in Dhaka :
* Ahsan Manzil, Sadarghat – A pink place belonging to one of the last nawabs of Dhaka . Currently being renovated, but still very beautiful.
* Shankaria Bazar, Sadarghat – Close to the Buriganga river, this is one of the most fascinating areas of old Dhaka and one of the few remaining Hindu neighbourhoods. Buy gold, silver and other jewellery from here.
* Lalbagh Fort, Azimpur – One of a minority of Mogul buildings and complexes in Dhaka . Built by Prince Mohammed Azam, third son of Aurangzeb in 1677.
* National Museum , Shahbag – Displays Bangladesh's multicultural and multifaith past as well as its secular traditions of arts and crafts.
* Boshondora Shopping Complex – Promoted as one of the largest shopping malls in Asia, this place is worth a visit even if you are not interested in shopping. It has hundreds of shops, a bowling alley, cinema complex, food hall, regular melas and music concerts.
* Liberation War Museum, Shegun Bagicha – A small building housing very moving and important accounts and displays of the 1971 war for independence between east Pakistan (Bangladesh) and west Pakistan (current Pakistan).
* Drik Art gallery, Dhanmondi – internationally renowned modern art gallery.
* Sonargaon – Perfect for a day trip, this is the country's first capital and the site of many old buildings, temples, bridges built pre-mogul era. The dilapidated buildings have a sense of being abandoned.
Chittagong
Chittagong City is Bangladesh 's second largest and it has a very different feel to it than Dhaka . For a start there are less people, but what is even more noticeable is that the city seems to be better designed and is much cleaner. Many people argue this is because politicians here are less corrupt but it possibly has something to do with the fact that it is a city situated by the sea and it has a more laid back atmosphere to it. But mirroring the development of the capital, Agrabad is the ubiquitous the modern city. Shop in the metal and glass malls and eat in the restaurants serving Thai, Chinese and many other international foods.
However, a few hours outside of the city is the Chittagong Hill Tracts one of the real jewels of this district. Home to the country's tribal minorities including the Chakmas, the largest tribal group, the Marmas and Tripuras, this area is unlike any other. Mountains, jungles, forests and lakes make up this land and has been the site of much conflict between the Bengali settlers and the indigenous people. The capital of the Chittagong Hill Tracts is Rangamati . It is less a town and more a series of islands situated on Kaptai Lake , the largest artificial lake in the country. The town is like any other in the country, but the tribal influences are evident including Buddhist monasteries and temples and the outfits worn by people. The lake itself is beautiful but the creation of it - during the days of the Pakistani rule to generate electricity - saw the destruction of tribal homes and land. Boat trips around the lake allows an opportunity to visit Chakma villages but this depends upon the volatility of the region at the time.
No trip to Bangladesh would be complete without a trip to Cox's Bazaar , the country's largest beach resort. Famed to be the largest beach in the world, this isn't the Brighton or Blackpool variety but is still great fun. The souvenir and tourist shops sell a range of tat produced from shells, smuggled Burmese goods and the all important ice cream. Beach lounges cost around 20 taka per hour but haggling is recommended. Hotels have a massive reduction during the off-season, almost half the advertised price. The town is like any other in the country with noise and pollution but it is home to a significant Burmese community. The Burmese market is open throughout the week and stays open late.
Check list for things to see and do in Chittagong :
* Sadarghat – as in Dhaka , the oldest area by the waterfront is called Sadarghat. This remains a Christian area following the early arrival of Portuguese. Watch boats, people and fish.
* Chilla of Badar Shah – Named after the sufi Badar Shah who arrived in 1336, for those interested in Sufism, this is a site for meditation and contemplation.
* Pahartali Lake – Beautiful lake with a theme park surrounding it. Perfect for children and families.
* Aggameda Khyang, Cox's Bazaar – 19 th century Buddhist monastery that is Burmese in architecture.
* Poushi Restaurant, Cox's Bazaar – Restaurant that specialises in the tastiest bortha, including aubergine, tomato, potato and dried fish.
Sylhet
This region is synonymous with British Bangladeshis. Sylhet City is a perfect example of an area in the midst of decay, development and debauchery. The poor are attracted from the villages into the urban areas with promises of jobs and money but when they get there, begging and other menial jobs is all they are allowed to do. The immigrants from this area who live all around the world pour money back but only in certain sectors such as shopping malls which don't benefit those who live there. But amongst this intricate balance, there are many places that are of interest to visitors. Chief amongst them is the Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal . Shah Jalal is the 14 th century sufi saint who brought Islam to this part of the world. Today it is a major pilgrimage site for Bangladeshi Muslims. Shah Jalal's robes and sword are preserved here but not on display. There is a huge pond in front of the shrine with sacred fish that are fed by pilgrims. According to legend, the fish are the metamorphosed black magician of the Raja Gour Govinda, who was defeated by Shah Jalal in 1303.
The mighty Surma River passes through the city. Observe bird, animal, plant and human life living and jostling together by the banks. Watching the sun set over the river with a warm glass of hot cha is an amazing experience.
Sylhet is the tea producing region of the country. It has over 150 tea estates spread over 40,000 hectares and produces over 30 million kilograms of tea each year. The largest number of tea estates in the north of the region is in Jaflong , near the Indian border. This is a very scenic area and is also home to the Khasi tribe. However, Srimangal in the south of the region is the tea growing centre of Bangladesh . For miles around the hills and the land is carpeted by green tea bushes. Cone shaped bamboo hats belonging to the women who pick the tea break up this greenery. Srimangal also has many lemon and pineapple orchards and are some of the tastiest in the country. There are several places to stay here, but the best is the Tea Resort , 20 minutes from the train station. The Tea Resort has an extremely welcoming swimming pool, a tennis court and well resourced guesthouses and cottages. Hiring a bike from here and cycling through the tea estates is one of the best things any visitor can do. The nearby Bangladesh Tea Research Institute offers guided tours of the factory.
Check list for things to see and do in Sylhet:
* Alhambra Shopping Complex – Shopping mall dedicated to visiting Londonis.
* Osmani Museum – The Osmani Museum is dedicated to the life of General Osmani. Housed in a colonial-era bungalow, the exhibition does not explain much about the life of this national hero, but is still worth a visit.
* Madhabkunda Waterfall – This waterfall is the one featured in all the tourist brochures. It is also where you will find elephants, still used as working animals.
* Sunamgonj Haor – The Sunamgonj haor (wetlands) are amazing during the rainy season. Home to migratory birds, organised tours are the best way to access this area.