Fashion in Bangladesh: Fashion Accessories

In our country gold is primarily used for creating jewellery. It’s been used for thousands of years as a symbol of class and status. In most cases the goldsmith business is a family profession where the skills are handed down from father to son through generations. The goldsmiths themselves turn out to be the designers who carry out all the tasks of melting the gold, beating it into strips, drilling, connecting, etc to come up with the final masterpiece. Such handmade items are quite popular across the globe.

Although both men and women wear jewellery it is mostly the latter who swoon at the thought and sight. It is hard to imagine a monsoon season without rain and in a similar vein it is hard to imagine woman without jewellery.

The jewellery fashion like all other fashion goes through cycles where what exists now becomes outmoded. But as cycles go what was chic a decade ago might be equally in vogue now. Take for example how in the early eighties heavy jewellery was a big hit. It went away for a while only to surface a few years ago. But such heavy items are starting to loose weight again as the fad now dictates slim and trim. Thick fat bracelets have given way to sleek designs that focus more on the craftsmanship. Big earrings that looked like chandeliers have surrendered to simplicity in the form of rings of varying diameters. Then there are the simple bracelets and pendants as well as kundon items. Solid gold jewellery is no longer such a singular fad with the frequent addition of imitation gems.

Whereas people used to deck themselves up with gold to show off their affluence nowadays it’s crazy rat race of the fashion world. That as well as recent price hike of goods means that buyers are looking into less expensive options such as lightweight gems studded jewellery.

The only weight who has to suffer from the heavy weight of jewellery is the poor brides who still have to carry around who still have to carry around huge amount of gold on themselves. But even here only the traditional pieces maintain their weighty existence whereas most of the other materials follow the lighter herd.

Another trend is that opting for white or coloured gold. These are always foreign made as in our country such techniques are still to be learned. For these the quantity of gold is less important than the actual design. So whether these are 18 or 20 carat gold is not as much of heartache as is the eventual design. White and coloured gold are preferred by young women who mainly go for chains and earrings.

The focus is moving more towards simplicity and style rather than the previous preoccupation with the quantity of precious metal itself. Whereas heavy jewellery. Whereas heavy jewellery drew attention to the object itself such new simpler designs are bringing the wearer into the light.

Of course gold is not always the preferable choice. Being expensive it is not only yearned by women but also by prowling men (and a few instances also women) commonly known as muggers. Also gold simply clashes with certain colours and outfits. The remedy is to go for the second best material in accessorizing which is silver.

It’s a relatively inexpensive metal and has been a favourite in the rural communities for a very long time. Simple things such as Bicha (chain round the waist) or anklets add a suave and complementary touch to any ensemble.

Silver has also earned its shining place of honour in formal occasions such as weddings and holuds. Also included are various cultural festivities where lightweight silver ornaments are worn. This increasing popularity of silver is owed partly to Aarong. They started off the revivals in the eighties with a fusion of classical designs and modern production techniques. A large part of the charm lies in the usage of the styles and designs of our indigenous tribal people. One of the primary reasons for the increase in the popularity is the increasing price of gold. Pure gold jewellery is becoming rare sight these days. People prefer to have ornaments created out of silver and have that plated with gold. To create more flash beads and gems are added to the collage.

Stones:
Even a few years ago women were seen wearing heavy gold items with intricate carvings. That trend has recently started to change with a shift from heavy metals to much lighter rocks and stones. Current fashion deals with using simple stone settings to enhance the look of the gold or silver ornaments. Take for example a simple yet very elegant set consisting of single pearl earrings, an equally solitary pearl necklace and may be a ring set with tiny pearls.

What is really hot right now is stone jewellery with delectable gems like ruby, zircon, amethyst, garnet, golden topaz, black zircon, etc. Along with these are also varied designs of stones settings in a multitude of colours. Such stones available in red, green, blue, black and anything else your heart desires are also used in combination or contrast with the clothes.

Brought in from India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Pakistan and Europe these semi precious stones are available in the local market. Bit for the super exclusivity nothing beats the timeless diamond. Pricey they might be but anything else is hard pressed to bring about as many ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ as diamonds. The prices depend on very much colour and cut. The clear diamonds are more expensive than the coloured ones.

Nature derived-wood, Bamboo, clothe, seeds, clay, dry flowers, sea shell:
Alternative materials for jewellery include clay and wood often combined with beads. Lots of creativity and modification is occurring in this segment. Young women generally prefer these as it is safe to be shown off to wannabe muggers as well as being inexpensive. Not only has that it provided the allure of being closure to the historical aspects of our culture. Some of the students from Charukola Institute have come up with a fusion of the classical design as well as the latest fads to create some beautiful terracotta pieces. What’s really amazing about such material is that they don’t feel as fragile as more expensive jewellery. You can wear them anywhere at anytime and it pretty much matches with any outfit. Also you can clean them easily.

Even a couple of years ago we could find in many boutiques unique jewellery items made out of seeds from various fruits and vegetables. These seeds were often cut up different beads were attached as well as colouring to create eye catching ensembles. Earrings, tops and simple necklaces were created using this unusual material.

Bangles:
It is almost impossible to imagine a Bengali woman without having love for Bangles or churi. Although there is a wide variety of churi already exist; for example – reshmi churi (thin glass made churi), churis made from sea shells, steel made churi (popularly known as Jonaki churi) ; new materials like clay, wood , bamboo, clothes are being introduced innovatively.

Belts:
This accessory is an important feature and trend setting, as styles can easily get updated and new ones can find amazing ways to show off different looks. Belts especially have taken center stage in the fashion scene. The waist has yet again become a point of interest for any ensemble. Dresses are backed with belted cinched waist lines, skirts have the options to hang from narrow or wide belts, pants may be worn either high or low on the waist and belts are now a must have accessory.

Belts come in a great many shape and sizes. But let’s have a look at some materials that have become popular as belts. Elements from the nature are a great source of inspiration, and have been used over time through the ages. Raffia, jute coconut leaves, pineapple leaves, cotton and twine are some of the interesting fibers that are used in different kind of weaves. It is actually great in creating textures, whether it is open weave or tight. Bone, shell, buttons, metals are also used as embellishments to create further interest on the belts.

Then there are belts which are made of embroidered fabrics, beaded, mirrored, metal threaded, wide or narrow, buckled or tie on, with a variety in design and style. Geometric in tribal motifs, floral or oriental, or just faintly minimalist, everything goes. Wide belts are looking good after a long time. The bright ethnic primary colours and bold patterns are inspired by rich ols culture. Molas of Central America, chogas of central Asia, or kimonos of the orient all have fine interpretations of the belt which is yet again finding its way on to the catwalk.

Belts are also being worn on the hips. Hipster, just about hanging of the hip with dangly bits and pieces tussled or necklaced, these are increasingly gaining popularity because of its carefree boho look. Metal chains with large hanging coins or large glass baubles are style you can take seriously.

Men need to get adventurous with their belts too. In the beginning of time men wore belts as a back support to lift heavy goods and continue to use it for the same purpose even today. But now belts have a far greater fashion role than before. It is very common to find men who pick up plain black, brown, tan leather belts with simple shape buckles which have a long mileage. But one can also look at other options and get more adventurous. Canvas, leather, fiber weaves or neon hologram plastic all have distinct character. The styles should demand new and different kinds of belts for the young and olds. It is one of the few accessories that have been worn over hundreds of years and shall remain a practical fashion for the future.

Shoes:
Shoes are so important that these have been central props in many fairy tales and mythologies. The Greek god Mercury had winged shoes that allowed him to fly and run at the same time at breakneck speeds. Then there was a old lady who used to live inside a giant shoe. The old lady must have been spending a fortune on air fresheners though.
Shoes are also a symbol of luck. That's why you will see that in many countries it is a ritual to tie a string of old shoes behind the car of the newlyweds. Poets like Rabindranath Tagore have eulogized the footwear in a poem titled ‘Juta Abishkar' (Invention of the shoe).
The shoe industry in Bangladesh began in the 50's and 60's when entrepreneurs came in from China , Pakistan and India . They set up factories employing locals to create shoes using all imported materials. All that was done here was to simply assemble the shoes. In Dhaka 's Mitford and Babubazar areas there used to be many Chinese owned factories.
Things changed though soon after the Liberation War when such factories were abandoned. Locals took over the management while many ex employees set up their own. The shoe Industry gain popularity in the late 70's and early 80's. Back then there were famous outlets such as Msko shoes, Derby , Bely keds, Beauty shoes, Radur juto, Dipali and Rupali Shoes. Back then the fashion dictated bell-bottoms with high flat soled shoes as well as straps and artificial leather covered shoes.
Despite the fact that countless factories have sprung up the local shoe industry has not developed as much as it should have. Aside from the leather all other materials including the rubber, pasting and cutting forms re all imported. The importers hike up the price, which makes it less profitable for the manufacturers. Also in the mean time because of the open market China , India , Thailand and Hong Kong are flooding the market with inexpensive items. The local manufacturers complain that in terms of quality ours are much better but the customers are lured by the foreign designs. Not only that the government provides no benefits for the shoe manufacturers. As for the employees there aren't any training centers where they can be given formal training.
Some local companies on the other hand, are doing very well by creating brand awareness. Mostly these are made in collaboration with foreign organizations. They use the foreign raw materials as well as their design and molds. These shoes are created for both exports as well as local sales though being a bit pricey they have not caught up in the local market that well.
Radu:
Established in 1978 Radu is one of the oldest shoe manufacturers in Bangladesh . The care taker Samiuddin Wara said that it started as a profession for the ancestors. After the separation from Pakistan operations were set up in both India and Bangladesh . The same designs are being manufactured in both Dhaka and Kolkata. The problem is that even though leather is available locally the rest of the materials have to be imported and the spiraling prices are cutting down on the profits by increasing the manufacturing cost. Despite the hardships the organization is still doing well because of a loyal customer base who has been buying their footwear for generations.
Bata:
Ask anyone to name a shoe brand in Bangladesh and they will invariably mention Bata. Its one of the largest multinationals doing business in Bangladesh serving everyone from the tiny tots at home oldest members. To top it off this has been going on for generations. In fact it has a selection for just about anyone in any profession that is unmatched by other manufacturers. There is everything from plastic shoes for wet seasons as well as leather and cloth. The company has deep pocket as a result they have some of the best technologies for design, production as well as training of personnel. In the past few years Bata has stopped creating its run of the mill designs and has come up with some trendy items based on customer wants. It seems just being big isn't enough. To stay big a shoe company has to meet the customer demands and come up with current styles as well as reliability and comfort.
Eastern Progressive Shoe Industry (EPSI):
They have been in the market since 1967 creating unique original leather shoes. Even though it had a big market back in the 60's at present it is a different story. They make shoes mainly for the defence personnel such as army, navy and the air force. Infact they are the only manufacturers providing footwear for the defence sector. So the civilians who get trampled by the defence personnel know which brand shoe is imprinted on their backside.
Factory in-charge Nurul Islam explains that the high cost of imported raw materials needed to create the soft shoes for the regular consumer was not as profitable. To maintain high standards of quality they had to face a lot of difficulties. These shoes are made completely out of leather as a result they are heavier than those made of other materials. The general consumer prefers lighter footwear. Of course a lot of these shoes are used as casual wear by the general public.
Apex Galleria:
Apex mainly started business for export purposes in 1991 in cooperation with Italy . These are also marketed locally with foreign personnel maintaining the quality assurance. They started opening showrooms locally around 1996 with mainly items for men. Although their quality is of a world class standard their sales in the local market are limited due to the high price.
Dhaka Bazaar:
This is also another export-oriented company that produces footwear in collaboration with Italy and Japan . They make shoes alongside many other leather products. They have their showrooms at Rifles square, Bishal Center and Mirpur road. They have similar worries regarding the local market where genuine leather shoes can cost as much as 1000-1200 taka whereas the general public would want cheaper alternatives such as rexin shoes for less than 400 taka.
Aarong collection:
Aarong has been creating sandals since the 80's. they have been creating designs that complement special outfits such as kurtas and fatuas. For women they have special selections that are adorned with silver and gold glitter. Also included in their collection are formal and casual sandals.
Leatherex:
Leatherex started off with a slogan called Healthy Walk that focused on shoes that are tailored for comfort and health of the feet. They opened their first outlet in Concord Arcadia shopping center in Dhanmondi in 2002. At present they have three outlets but their preference lies in export.
The market is comprised of a huge assortment of local as well as foreign manufacturers. In Dhaka most of the shops are situated in Elephant Road . All kinds of shoes are made here including some amazing designs with glass heels, embroidery work and lace. But many of the shopkeepers sell these as foreign made items because customers consider that to be better quality.
Another big shoe market in Dhaka is the Pallwell market near the Jonaki Cinema Hall in new Paltan. Many different branded items are found at relatively low prices.
In the past two decades there has been a strong upsurge in awareness towards local products such as in cases of clothing and entertainment magazines. But such a thing has not happened in case of shoes. For several reason such as the influx of smuggled goods, high price of raw materials customers prefer the cheaper synthetic items that comes through illegal routes. But to get out of this rut the manufacturers themselves have to fight the importers by creating shoes that follow the customer demand. Following the market trend to create what the customers really wants in terms of design and quality would be greatest way to turn around this preference for foreign goods.
Alta:
A large segment of young people of Dhaka city is unaware of the existence of this beauty product that once dominated the lifestyle of Bengali women. Descriptions of restless young village girls in Bengali poems and stories never forget to highlight alta.
Although young girls living in the rural Bangladesh still take delight in painting their finger tips and toes in bright red, only a handful of girls living in the urban Bangladesh have ever used alta . As a matter of fact, alta is mostly used to celebrate weddings, Bengali festivities like Pohela Boishakh and dance performances in Bangladesh . Alta isn't even very widely available here in this capital. Only a couple of stores selling jewellery and cosmetics sell alta. Bottles of alta are usually available in Gausia Market, New Market, Mouchak Market and in other not-very-posh shopping centres.
The tradition of wearing alta is almost forgotten in our town culture. Since the theme colour of Pohela Boishakh is usually red, it's beyond doubt that alta-red toes would beautifully harmonise with your Boishakhi attire.
In the local markets, brands like Nova, Nilkomol, Nirma, Chomok et cetera are available. Some of the locally available brands have bottles like felt-tips, which relieves you from the trouble of looking for cotton and stick to prepare the customary means of putting on alta. While some of the available brands are made locally, others are imported from India . Makes like Nilkomol and Chomok have felt tips and are thereby simple to use. Price of a bottle of alta will usually vary between tk.25 and tk.45. The Indian brands usually cost higher than the local varieties.